Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
